Khuiten Peak Expedition (4374m) – Mongolia

Trip Type: Mountaineering
Region: Mongolia
Grade: Moderate
Duration: 8+ Days
Max Altitude: 4347
Best Season: June - August
Trip Begins: Ulaanbatar / Ends: Ulaanbatar
Trip Cost

This is a custom departure tour and so please write to us for prices and more info on this trek.

At the heart of Mongolia’s Altai Tavan Bogd (Five Holy Peaks), Mount Khuiten is one of the least accessible mountains on earth. Each of the five peak names represent simple meanings; Nairamdal – friendship; Malchin – herder; Burgd – eagle; Ölgii – cradle and Khuiten – cold.

This massif lies on the border with both Russia and China, some 2000 kilometres west of the Mongolian capital of Ulaanbaatar. Our journey takes us to the remote Kazakh province of Bayan Olgii where we start our trek. A wild, remote, beautiful wilderness made up of spectacular flowering fields and vast open mountain tundra, inhabited only by traditional herding families and abundant wildlife. More than just a superb climbing expedition, this is also a fascinating travel experience in a rarely-visited corner of the world.

The longest glacier of Mongolia, the Potanin glacier stretches for 19km from the eastern face of Mt. Khuiten. On the summit day, when on the top of Khuiten, you will be able to glance into Russia and China. The local Tuvan herders acting as your camel caravan handlers and as porters will make an unforgettable company and share their culture and traditions with you.

Itinerary
DAY 01
Arrival in Ulaanbaatar

We arrive in the capital of Mongolia and transfer to a centrally located hotel. Afternoon guided walking city tour will introduce you to the highlights of the city: The central city square with a grand statue of Genghis Khan and Sukhbaatar statue placed at the center as well. Museum of National History is located right next to the square will introducing Mongolia’s history from early humans to modern era. Then choose to visit one of two museums from the following: 1. Choijin Lama or State Oracle Residence-museum displaying best samples of Buddhist artwork and religious masks. 2 The Fine Arts Zanabazar Museum displays old arts including Buddhist arts, painting, folk arts and crafts, sculptures, carvings and embroideries. Overnight in hotel

DAY 02
Ulaanbaatar to Olgy Duration: Flight 3 hours

Today we take a flight to Ulgy town in Western Mongolia. The Kazakhs living in the area are the largest national minority and practice Sunni Islam. A number of other ethnic groups also reside in the province in the region. We meet the support staff here head westward to Tavan Bogd national park. At the end of a 3 hours travel across mountainous desert we camp in the valley of Sogoot river.

DAY 03
Olgy to Oigor Duration: Drive 6-7 hours

Travel further west and by early afternoon reach the Oigor river valley, the gateway to the Tavan Bogd peaks.

DAY 04
Oigor Camp to Tavan Bogd peaks base camp Distance: 15 kms Duration: 6-7 hours

Trek for 15km to Tavan Bogd peaks base camp (BC). 2 thirds of the way is a gradual but continuous ascent across high mountain terrain with some marshes and a couple of streams to cross. We stop briefly to examine and photograph ancient petroglyphs—remarkable rock art drawings that date back some 12,000 years and illustrate the development of culture in Mongolia over time. Bactrian Camels carry our loads to the base camp.

DAY 05 - 09
Acclimatisation treks and climb Mount Khuiten Duration: Multiple hours

Over the following days, we will rest and acclimatise, plus trek/climb Malchin Peak 4,051m from Base Camp, returning along the Russian border and down through a tiny valley full of flowers. After some rest, we will pack up one or two nights of food and move to an advance camp on the glacier beneath Khuiten Peak. From there, we will climb the highest mountain in Mongolia and stand on the borders of China, Russia and Mongolia, a dramatic vista. If the weather is favourable and the conditions good we may be able to climb another King of the Altai on our last day or use that day as a buffer.

DAY 10
Base Camp - Lower Gate Tavan Bogd National Park Duration: 4-5 hours

Trek out to lower gate of Tavan Bogd NP – White river valley. This time it is an easy stroll downhill although interrupted by a couple of bogs and a slightly longer route than the way up. Again loads are carried by camels.

DAY 11
Lower Gate Tavan Bogd National Park - Ulgy Duration: 7 hours

7 hour return drive to Ulgy town. En-route we stop to visit a local Kazakh family and see their golden eagles which are kept for hunting purposes. In Ulgy we check in to a hotel.

DAY 12
Ulgy - Ulaanbaatar Duration: Flight 3 hours

Breakfast and transfer to Ulgy airport for flight to Ulaanbaatar. Arrival in Ulaanbaatar and transfer to the hotel. The rest of the day is at your own disposal.

DAY 13

Reserve day
This is just for planning purposes book your return flights in a way that you fly out of Mongolia on Day 14.

DAY 14
Last day transfer to Airport

Transfer to the airport. Trip ends!

Inclusions
  • Accommodation on twin sharing basis in tents and hotel.
  • Camping Tents, Kitchen tents, Dining Tents at Base Camp.
  • All transfers and overland transport in Russian 4*4 van(s)
    All meals Ulgy to Ulgy and safe drinking water.
  • Cook and camp staff.
  • Climbing guide for the duration of the trip.
  • Pack animals (Camels) and porters to carry loads on the route until ABC with personal portage up to 10 kg/person.
  • National Park Fees.
Exclusions
  • Sleeping Bags and sleeping pads
    Food at hotels in Ulaanbaatar.
  • All expenses of personal nature like bottled water, drinks, tips, telephone calls, mineral water etc.
    Any Personal Mountaineering Equipment and Clothing.
  • Any international flight Delhi to UL and Flight Ticket UB-Ulgi-UB.
  • Any other transport and food than whats mentioned in Cost includes.
  • Tips and gratuities.
  • Any expense incurred due to force majeure such as landslide, bad weather or reasons beyond our control.
  • Any Guest Insurance.
Things You Need To Get

-Sturdy backpack/rucksack (70 lt)- This will go on horses until Base Camp
-Backpack small ( 20 – 30 Ltrs) – to carry every day.
– 4 season sleeping bag (-10 deg C or lower)
– Insulated Sleeping Pad
-Warm hiking pants and shirts/Tshirts/sweatshirt.
– T-shirt wicking Layer.
– Good hiking shoes.
– Head light with extra batteries.
– Sunglasses.
– Sunscreen (SPF 50+) and toiletries.
– Thermal underwear / long johns (upper + lowers)
– Insulated water bottle/ flask.
– Warm fleece jacket.
– Rain Gear
– Down jacket.
– Warm gloves – thin ones
– Warm gloves – thick (waterproof)
– Warm socks
– Headgear (balaclavas/woollen cap, sun hat, bandana etc.)
– Personal recreation: camera, books, music, cards etc
– Hiking poles
– Personal climbing harness
– Helmet
– Gaiters
– Crampons
– Carabiners
– Ice axe
– Rope slings for self anchors
– Prescribed medication if any

Overview
+-

At the heart of Mongolia’s Altai Tavan Bogd (Five Holy Peaks), Mount Khuiten is one of the least accessible mountains on earth. Each of the five peak names represent simple meanings; Nairamdal – friendship; Malchin – herder; Burgd – eagle; Ölgii – cradle and Khuiten – cold.

This massif lies on the border with both Russia and China, some 2000 kilometres west of the Mongolian capital of Ulaanbaatar. Our journey takes us to the remote Kazakh province of Bayan Olgii where we start our trek. A wild, remote, beautiful wilderness made up of spectacular flowering fields and vast open mountain tundra, inhabited only by traditional herding families and abundant wildlife. More than just a superb climbing expedition, this is also a fascinating travel experience in a rarely-visited corner of the world.

The longest glacier of Mongolia, the Potanin glacier stretches for 19km from the eastern face of Mt. Khuiten. On the summit day, when on the top of Khuiten, you will be able to glance into Russia and China. The local Tuvan herders acting as your camel caravan handlers and as porters will make an unforgettable company and share their culture and traditions with you.

Itinerary
+-
DAY 01
Arrival in Ulaanbaatar

We arrive in the capital of Mongolia and transfer to a centrally located hotel. Afternoon guided walking city tour will introduce you to the highlights of the city: The central city square with a grand statue of Genghis Khan and Sukhbaatar statue placed at the center as well. Museum of National History is located right next to the square will introducing Mongolia’s history from early humans to modern era. Then choose to visit one of two museums from the following: 1. Choijin Lama or State Oracle Residence-museum displaying best samples of Buddhist artwork and religious masks. 2 The Fine Arts Zanabazar Museum displays old arts including Buddhist arts, painting, folk arts and crafts, sculptures, carvings and embroideries. Overnight in hotel

DAY 02
Ulaanbaatar to Olgy Duration: Flight 3 hours

Today we take a flight to Ulgy town in Western Mongolia. The Kazakhs living in the area are the largest national minority and practice Sunni Islam. A number of other ethnic groups also reside in the province in the region. We meet the support staff here head westward to Tavan Bogd national park. At the end of a 3 hours travel across mountainous desert we camp in the valley of Sogoot river.

DAY 03
Olgy to Oigor Duration: Drive 6-7 hours

Travel further west and by early afternoon reach the Oigor river valley, the gateway to the Tavan Bogd peaks.

DAY 04
Oigor Camp to Tavan Bogd peaks base camp Distance: 15 kms Duration: 6-7 hours

Trek for 15km to Tavan Bogd peaks base camp (BC). 2 thirds of the way is a gradual but continuous ascent across high mountain terrain with some marshes and a couple of streams to cross. We stop briefly to examine and photograph ancient petroglyphs—remarkable rock art drawings that date back some 12,000 years and illustrate the development of culture in Mongolia over time. Bactrian Camels carry our loads to the base camp.

DAY 05 - 09
Acclimatisation treks and climb Mount Khuiten Duration: Multiple hours

Over the following days, we will rest and acclimatise, plus trek/climb Malchin Peak 4,051m from Base Camp, returning along the Russian border and down through a tiny valley full of flowers. After some rest, we will pack up one or two nights of food and move to an advance camp on the glacier beneath Khuiten Peak. From there, we will climb the highest mountain in Mongolia and stand on the borders of China, Russia and Mongolia, a dramatic vista. If the weather is favourable and the conditions good we may be able to climb another King of the Altai on our last day or use that day as a buffer.

DAY 10
Base Camp - Lower Gate Tavan Bogd National Park Duration: 4-5 hours

Trek out to lower gate of Tavan Bogd NP – White river valley. This time it is an easy stroll downhill although interrupted by a couple of bogs and a slightly longer route than the way up. Again loads are carried by camels.

DAY 11
Lower Gate Tavan Bogd National Park - Ulgy Duration: 7 hours

7 hour return drive to Ulgy town. En-route we stop to visit a local Kazakh family and see their golden eagles which are kept for hunting purposes. In Ulgy we check in to a hotel.

DAY 12
Ulgy - Ulaanbaatar Duration: Flight 3 hours

Breakfast and transfer to Ulgy airport for flight to Ulaanbaatar. Arrival in Ulaanbaatar and transfer to the hotel. The rest of the day is at your own disposal.

DAY 13

Reserve day
This is just for planning purposes book your return flights in a way that you fly out of Mongolia on Day 14.

DAY 14
Last day transfer to Airport

Transfer to the airport. Trip ends!

Inclusions/ Exclusions
+-
Inclusions
  • Accommodation on twin sharing basis in tents and hotel.
  • Camping Tents, Kitchen tents, Dining Tents at Base Camp.
  • All transfers and overland transport in Russian 4*4 van(s)
    All meals Ulgy to Ulgy and safe drinking water.
  • Cook and camp staff.
  • Climbing guide for the duration of the trip.
  • Pack animals (Camels) and porters to carry loads on the route until ABC with personal portage up to 10 kg/person.
  • National Park Fees.
Exclusions
  • Sleeping Bags and sleeping pads
    Food at hotels in Ulaanbaatar.
  • All expenses of personal nature like bottled water, drinks, tips, telephone calls, mineral water etc.
    Any Personal Mountaineering Equipment and Clothing.
  • Any international flight Delhi to UL and Flight Ticket UB-Ulgi-UB.
  • Any other transport and food than whats mentioned in Cost includes.
  • Tips and gratuities.
  • Any expense incurred due to force majeure such as landslide, bad weather or reasons beyond our control.
  • Any Guest Insurance.
Things You Need To Get
+-

-Sturdy backpack/rucksack (70 lt)- This will go on horses until Base Camp
-Backpack small ( 20 – 30 Ltrs) – to carry every day.
– 4 season sleeping bag (-10 deg C or lower)
– Insulated Sleeping Pad
-Warm hiking pants and shirts/Tshirts/sweatshirt.
– T-shirt wicking Layer.
– Good hiking shoes.
– Head light with extra batteries.
– Sunglasses.
– Sunscreen (SPF 50+) and toiletries.
– Thermal underwear / long johns (upper + lowers)
– Insulated water bottle/ flask.
– Warm fleece jacket.
– Rain Gear
– Down jacket.
– Warm gloves – thin ones
– Warm gloves – thick (waterproof)
– Warm socks
– Headgear (balaclavas/woollen cap, sun hat, bandana etc.)
– Personal recreation: camera, books, music, cards etc
– Hiking poles
– Personal climbing harness
– Helmet
– Gaiters
– Crampons
– Carabiners
– Ice axe
– Rope slings for self anchors
– Prescribed medication if any