This is a custom departure tour and so please write to us for prices and more info on this trek.
Mt Kun expedition (7077m) is approached via the Shafat glacier in the Zanskar Valley. Kun is the smaller peak in the Nun Kun massif and was first summitted in 1913 by Italian mountaineer Mario Piacenza. The climbing grade for Kun can vary between PD and AD depending on the month and the snow cover. Our objective is to climb it via the East Ridge.
The Nun Kun massif are the biggest peaks that dominate the Upper Suru valley in the Zanskar. Separated by a short plateau, the two peaks have separate traditional routes.
The peak itself is very accessible from the road with the base camp only a day’s hike away. We follow the Shafat Nala and walk along its banks to reach the moraine and glacier. Cross the glacier and reach a green patch that serves as our base camp.
Nun and Kun are both very attractive climbs considering the easy accessibility, which is a rarity for a 7000m+ peak. The climbing Grade can vary between PD to AD. This peak is surely a natural progression if a future 8000m peak is on your bucket list.
Get a flight to Leh town and transfer to the hotel. Relax and acclimatize. Visit Leh market in the evening. Overnight Hotel.
Optional visit to the Leh Palace and the Shey and Thikse gompas. Last minute shopping in the Leh market. Overnight hotel.
We drive to Kargil today, past the confluence of the Zanskar and the Indus rivers. We pass the derelict fort at Basgo, the painted caves at Saspol to reach Khalsi where the road crosses the Indus River and the beautiful Gompa at Lamayuru. Continue to cross the Fotu La (4108m) and Namika La (3700m) to reach the village of Mulbekh. 41kms further is the town of Kargil which marks the transition to a predominantly Muslim area from where one can either continue west to Kashmir or take the rough road south up the Suru valley into Zanskar, which is our destination.
From Kargil, we drive further South into the Suru valley for 70km to Panikhar. The Balti settlements along this valley are surrounded by lush fields growing a wide variety of crops and fruits. As we gain height we see the first glimpses of Nun and Kun. The road turns East for 63 kms, past the last Muslim settlement of Parkachik. Our road head is Shafat, short of the Buddhist Gelukpa monastery of Rangdum. Camp next to the police post at Shafat.
Take the day to sort out your equipment, take a couple of short hikes and acclimatise.
We start our walk along the Shafat Nalla, through meadows to Chasme. From here, we walk on the moraine crossing the Shafat glacier to the Base Camp.
We take the next 14 days making load ferries, setting up Mt-Kun Camp 1 (5300m), Camp 2 (6000m) and Camp 3 (6200m) while acclimatising for the summit push. The route to Camp 1 is a gradual climb through the moraine and the glacier fields of the Shafat glacier. Mt-Kun Camp 1 to Camp 2 is the crux of the climb – a 700m ice wall. We camp at the top of the ice wall.
We retrace our steps back to Shafat and the road head.
Drive back to Leh. Trip Ends!
– Sturdy backpack/rucksack (70 lt)- This will go on horses until Base Camp
Backpack small ( 20 – 30 Ltrs) – to carry every day.
– Warm hiking pants and shirts/T-shirts/sweatshirt.
– T-shirt wicking Layer.
– Good hiking shoes.
– Head light with extra batteries.
– Sunglasses.
– Sunscreen (SPF 50+) and toiletries.
– Thermal underwear / long johns (upper + lowers).
– Insulated water bottle/ flask.
– Warm fleece jacket.
– Rain Gear.
– Down jacket.
– Warm gloves – thin to work in the ice.
– Warm gloves – thick (waterproof).
– Warm socks.
– Headgear (balaclavas/woollen cap, sun hat, bandana etc).
– 4 season sleeping bag (-10 deg C or lower).
– Personal recreation: camera, books, music, cards etc.
– Hiking poles.
– Personal climbing harness.
– Helmet.
– Gaiters.
– Climbing Boots and Crampons.
– Carabiners.
– Ice axe.
– Rope slings for self anchors.
– Prescribed medication if any.
Mt Kun expedition (7077m) is approached via the Shafat glacier in the Zanskar Valley. Kun is the smaller peak in the Nun Kun massif and was first summitted in 1913 by Italian mountaineer Mario Piacenza. The climbing grade for Kun can vary between PD and AD depending on the month and the snow cover. Our objective is to climb it via the East Ridge.
The Nun Kun massif are the biggest peaks that dominate the Upper Suru valley in the Zanskar. Separated by a short plateau, the two peaks have separate traditional routes.
The peak itself is very accessible from the road with the base camp only a day’s hike away. We follow the Shafat Nala and walk along its banks to reach the moraine and glacier. Cross the glacier and reach a green patch that serves as our base camp.
Nun and Kun are both very attractive climbs considering the easy accessibility, which is a rarity for a 7000m+ peak. The climbing Grade can vary between PD to AD. This peak is surely a natural progression if a future 8000m peak is on your bucket list.
Get a flight to Leh town and transfer to the hotel. Relax and acclimatize. Visit Leh market in the evening. Overnight Hotel.
Optional visit to the Leh Palace and the Shey and Thikse gompas. Last minute shopping in the Leh market. Overnight hotel.
We drive to Kargil today, past the confluence of the Zanskar and the Indus rivers. We pass the derelict fort at Basgo, the painted caves at Saspol to reach Khalsi where the road crosses the Indus River and the beautiful Gompa at Lamayuru. Continue to cross the Fotu La (4108m) and Namika La (3700m) to reach the village of Mulbekh. 41kms further is the town of Kargil which marks the transition to a predominantly Muslim area from where one can either continue west to Kashmir or take the rough road south up the Suru valley into Zanskar, which is our destination.
From Kargil, we drive further South into the Suru valley for 70km to Panikhar. The Balti settlements along this valley are surrounded by lush fields growing a wide variety of crops and fruits. As we gain height we see the first glimpses of Nun and Kun. The road turns East for 63 kms, past the last Muslim settlement of Parkachik. Our road head is Shafat, short of the Buddhist Gelukpa monastery of Rangdum. Camp next to the police post at Shafat.
Take the day to sort out your equipment, take a couple of short hikes and acclimatise.
We start our walk along the Shafat Nalla, through meadows to Chasme. From here, we walk on the moraine crossing the Shafat glacier to the Base Camp.
We take the next 14 days making load ferries, setting up Mt-Kun Camp 1 (5300m), Camp 2 (6000m) and Camp 3 (6200m) while acclimatising for the summit push. The route to Camp 1 is a gradual climb through the moraine and the glacier fields of the Shafat glacier. Mt-Kun Camp 1 to Camp 2 is the crux of the climb – a 700m ice wall. We camp at the top of the ice wall.
We retrace our steps back to Shafat and the road head.
Drive back to Leh. Trip Ends!
– Sturdy backpack/rucksack (70 lt)- This will go on horses until Base Camp
Backpack small ( 20 – 30 Ltrs) – to carry every day.
– Warm hiking pants and shirts/T-shirts/sweatshirt.
– T-shirt wicking Layer.
– Good hiking shoes.
– Head light with extra batteries.
– Sunglasses.
– Sunscreen (SPF 50+) and toiletries.
– Thermal underwear / long johns (upper + lowers).
– Insulated water bottle/ flask.
– Warm fleece jacket.
– Rain Gear.
– Down jacket.
– Warm gloves – thin to work in the ice.
– Warm gloves – thick (waterproof).
– Warm socks.
– Headgear (balaclavas/woollen cap, sun hat, bandana etc).
– 4 season sleeping bag (-10 deg C or lower).
– Personal recreation: camera, books, music, cards etc.
– Hiking poles.
– Personal climbing harness.
– Helmet.
– Gaiters.
– Climbing Boots and Crampons.
– Carabiners.
– Ice axe.
– Rope slings for self anchors.
– Prescribed medication if any.