Mt-Kun Expedition (7077m) East Ridge

Trip Type: Mountaineering
Region: Zanskar Valley
Grade: Challenging
Duration: 8+ Days
Max Altitude: 7077
Best Season: June - September
Trip Begins: Leh / Manali / Ends: Leh / Manali
Trip Cost

This is a custom departure tour and so please write to us for prices and more info on this trek.

Mt Kun expedition (7077m) is approached via the Shafat glacier in the Zanskar Valley. Kun is the smaller peak in the Nun Kun massif and was first summitted in 1913 by Italian mountaineer Mario Piacenza. The climbing grade for Kun can vary between PD and AD depending on the month and the snow cover. Our objective is to climb it via the East Ridge.

The Nun Kun massif are the biggest peaks that dominate the Upper Suru valley in the Zanskar. Separated by a short plateau, the two peaks have separate traditional routes.

The peak itself is very accessible from the road with the base camp only a day’s hike away. We follow the Shafat Nala and walk along its banks to reach the moraine and glacier. Cross the glacier and reach a green patch that serves as our base camp.

Nun and Kun are both very attractive climbs considering the easy accessibility, which is a rarity for a 7000m+ peak. The climbing Grade can vary between PD to AD. This peak is surely a natural progression if a future 8000m peak is on your bucket list.

Itinerary
DAY 01
Arrival in Leh (3400m)

Get a flight to Leh town and transfer to the hotel. Relax and acclimatize. Visit Leh market in the evening. Overnight Hotel.

DAY 02
Acclimatization in Leh

Optional visit to the Leh Palace and the Shey and Thikse gompas. Last minute shopping in the Leh market. Overnight hotel.

DAY 03
Leh - Kargil (2676m) Duration: Drive 6-7 hours

We drive to Kargil today, past the confluence of the Zanskar and the Indus rivers. We pass the derelict fort at Basgo, the painted caves at Saspol to reach Khalsi where the road crosses the Indus River and the beautiful Gompa at Lamayuru. Continue to cross the Fotu La (4108m) and Namika La (3700m) to reach the village of Mulbekh. 41kms further is the town of Kargil which marks the transition to a predominantly Muslim area from where one can either continue west to Kashmir or take the rough road south up the Suru valley into Zanskar, which is our destination.

DAY 04
Drive Kargil to Shafat (3650m) Duration: Drive 6-7 hours

From Kargil, we drive further South into the Suru valley for 70km to Panikhar. The Balti settlements along this valley are surrounded by lush fields growing a wide variety of crops and fruits. As we gain height we see the first glimpses of Nun and Kun. The road turns East for 63 kms, past the last Muslim settlement of Parkachik. Our road head is Shafat, short of the Buddhist Gelukpa monastery of Rangdum. Camp next to the police post at Shafat.

DAY 05
In Shafat Duration: 2-5 hours

Take the day to sort out your equipment, take a couple of short hikes and acclimatise.

DAY 06
Trek Shafat to BC (4200m) Duration: 5-7 hours

We start our walk along the Shafat Nalla, through meadows to Chasme. From here, we walk on the moraine crossing the Shafat glacier to the Base Camp.

DAY 07-20
Climbing days Duration: Multiple hours

We take the next 14 days making load ferries, setting up Mt-Kun Camp 1 (5300m), Camp 2 (6000m) and Camp 3 (6200m) while acclimatising for the summit push. The route to Camp 1 is a gradual climb through the moraine and the glacier fields of the Shafat glacier. Mt-Kun Camp 1 to Camp 2 is the crux of the climb – a 700m ice wall. We camp at the top of the ice wall.

DAY 21
Mt-Kun Base Camp - Shafat Duration: 5-6 hours

We retrace our steps back to Shafat and the road head.

DAY 22
Drive back to Leh. Duration: Drive 8-9 hours

Drive back to Leh. Trip Ends!

Inclusions
  • Accommodation on twin sharing basis in tents.
  • Camping Tents, Kitchen tents, Dining Tents, Western Style Toilet Tents.
  • Insulated sleeping pads.
  • All meals as detailed in the itinerary and safe drinking water.
  • Cook and camp staff.
  • Climbing guide for the duration of the trip.
  • Pack animals (Horses/Mules) to carry loads on the route until Base Camp with personal portage up to 10 kg/person.
  • All HP state Forest Permits, IMF Peak fee/State government royalty/permits where applicable.
  • All technical climbing group gear.
  • All transport from Manali to road head and back.
  • All Staff Insurance.
Exclusions
  • Sleeping Bags.
  • Stay and food at hotels in Manali.
  • Any expenses of personal nature like bottled water, drinks, tips, telephone calls, mineral water etc.
  • Any Personal Mountaineering Equipment and Clothing.
  • Any other transport than whats mentioned in Cost includes.
  • Any expense incurred due to force majeure such as landslide, bad weather or reasons beyond our control.
  • Any Guest Insurance.
Things You Need To Get

– Sturdy backpack/rucksack (70 lt)- This will go on horses until Base Camp
Backpack small ( 20 – 30 Ltrs) – to carry every day.
– Warm hiking pants and shirts/T-shirts/sweatshirt.
– T-shirt wicking Layer.
– Good hiking shoes.
– Head light with extra batteries.
– Sunglasses.
– Sunscreen (SPF 50+) and toiletries.
– Thermal underwear / long johns (upper + lowers).
– Insulated water bottle/ flask.
– Warm fleece jacket.
– Rain Gear.
– Down jacket.
– Warm gloves – thin to work in the ice.
– Warm gloves – thick (waterproof).
– Warm socks.
– Headgear (balaclavas/woollen cap, sun hat, bandana etc).
– 4 season sleeping bag (-10 deg C or lower).
– Personal recreation: camera, books, music, cards etc.
– Hiking poles.
– Personal climbing harness.
– Helmet.
– Gaiters.
– Climbing Boots and Crampons.
– Carabiners.
– Ice axe.
– Rope slings for self anchors.
– Prescribed medication if any.

Overview
+-

Mt Kun expedition (7077m) is approached via the Shafat glacier in the Zanskar Valley. Kun is the smaller peak in the Nun Kun massif and was first summitted in 1913 by Italian mountaineer Mario Piacenza. The climbing grade for Kun can vary between PD and AD depending on the month and the snow cover. Our objective is to climb it via the East Ridge.

The Nun Kun massif are the biggest peaks that dominate the Upper Suru valley in the Zanskar. Separated by a short plateau, the two peaks have separate traditional routes.

The peak itself is very accessible from the road with the base camp only a day’s hike away. We follow the Shafat Nala and walk along its banks to reach the moraine and glacier. Cross the glacier and reach a green patch that serves as our base camp.

Nun and Kun are both very attractive climbs considering the easy accessibility, which is a rarity for a 7000m+ peak. The climbing Grade can vary between PD to AD. This peak is surely a natural progression if a future 8000m peak is on your bucket list.

Itinerary
+-
DAY 01
Arrival in Leh (3400m)

Get a flight to Leh town and transfer to the hotel. Relax and acclimatize. Visit Leh market in the evening. Overnight Hotel.

DAY 02
Acclimatization in Leh

Optional visit to the Leh Palace and the Shey and Thikse gompas. Last minute shopping in the Leh market. Overnight hotel.

DAY 03
Leh - Kargil (2676m) Duration: Drive 6-7 hours

We drive to Kargil today, past the confluence of the Zanskar and the Indus rivers. We pass the derelict fort at Basgo, the painted caves at Saspol to reach Khalsi where the road crosses the Indus River and the beautiful Gompa at Lamayuru. Continue to cross the Fotu La (4108m) and Namika La (3700m) to reach the village of Mulbekh. 41kms further is the town of Kargil which marks the transition to a predominantly Muslim area from where one can either continue west to Kashmir or take the rough road south up the Suru valley into Zanskar, which is our destination.

DAY 04
Drive Kargil to Shafat (3650m) Duration: Drive 6-7 hours

From Kargil, we drive further South into the Suru valley for 70km to Panikhar. The Balti settlements along this valley are surrounded by lush fields growing a wide variety of crops and fruits. As we gain height we see the first glimpses of Nun and Kun. The road turns East for 63 kms, past the last Muslim settlement of Parkachik. Our road head is Shafat, short of the Buddhist Gelukpa monastery of Rangdum. Camp next to the police post at Shafat.

DAY 05
In Shafat Duration: 2-5 hours

Take the day to sort out your equipment, take a couple of short hikes and acclimatise.

DAY 06
Trek Shafat to BC (4200m) Duration: 5-7 hours

We start our walk along the Shafat Nalla, through meadows to Chasme. From here, we walk on the moraine crossing the Shafat glacier to the Base Camp.

DAY 07-20
Climbing days Duration: Multiple hours

We take the next 14 days making load ferries, setting up Mt-Kun Camp 1 (5300m), Camp 2 (6000m) and Camp 3 (6200m) while acclimatising for the summit push. The route to Camp 1 is a gradual climb through the moraine and the glacier fields of the Shafat glacier. Mt-Kun Camp 1 to Camp 2 is the crux of the climb – a 700m ice wall. We camp at the top of the ice wall.

DAY 21
Mt-Kun Base Camp - Shafat Duration: 5-6 hours

We retrace our steps back to Shafat and the road head.

DAY 22
Drive back to Leh. Duration: Drive 8-9 hours

Drive back to Leh. Trip Ends!

Inclusions/ Exclusions
+-
Inclusions
  • Accommodation on twin sharing basis in tents.
  • Camping Tents, Kitchen tents, Dining Tents, Western Style Toilet Tents.
  • Insulated sleeping pads.
  • All meals as detailed in the itinerary and safe drinking water.
  • Cook and camp staff.
  • Climbing guide for the duration of the trip.
  • Pack animals (Horses/Mules) to carry loads on the route until Base Camp with personal portage up to 10 kg/person.
  • All HP state Forest Permits, IMF Peak fee/State government royalty/permits where applicable.
  • All technical climbing group gear.
  • All transport from Manali to road head and back.
  • All Staff Insurance.
Exclusions
  • Sleeping Bags.
  • Stay and food at hotels in Manali.
  • Any expenses of personal nature like bottled water, drinks, tips, telephone calls, mineral water etc.
  • Any Personal Mountaineering Equipment and Clothing.
  • Any other transport than whats mentioned in Cost includes.
  • Any expense incurred due to force majeure such as landslide, bad weather or reasons beyond our control.
  • Any Guest Insurance.
Things You Need To Get
+-

– Sturdy backpack/rucksack (70 lt)- This will go on horses until Base Camp
Backpack small ( 20 – 30 Ltrs) – to carry every day.
– Warm hiking pants and shirts/T-shirts/sweatshirt.
– T-shirt wicking Layer.
– Good hiking shoes.
– Head light with extra batteries.
– Sunglasses.
– Sunscreen (SPF 50+) and toiletries.
– Thermal underwear / long johns (upper + lowers).
– Insulated water bottle/ flask.
– Warm fleece jacket.
– Rain Gear.
– Down jacket.
– Warm gloves – thin to work in the ice.
– Warm gloves – thick (waterproof).
– Warm socks.
– Headgear (balaclavas/woollen cap, sun hat, bandana etc).
– 4 season sleeping bag (-10 deg C or lower).
– Personal recreation: camera, books, music, cards etc.
– Hiking poles.
– Personal climbing harness.
– Helmet.
– Gaiters.
– Climbing Boots and Crampons.
– Carabiners.
– Ice axe.
– Rope slings for self anchors.
– Prescribed medication if any.